Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Nameraka - Any Size, Any Yarn Seamless Kimono Jumper

This pattern is being offered free for your use however if you like it I would really appreciate it if you could donate a few dollars to the MND Victoria an organisation that supports sufferers of and reserach into Motor Neurone Disease. If you would like to read more about why I am passionate about this cause please click here.

Materials:

12 ply [10 ply, 8 ply] yarn – the actual amount required will obvious vary according to the finished garment size. As an indication, the original garment (measurements in parentheses below) used 800m of the main colour and 120m of the contrast. The child’s sweater (approximately a size 2) used approximately 300m of the main colour and 50m of the contrast. If you are unsure as to how much yarn to get, think about how much yarn a jumper in your size would need and you are pretty close.

4 stitch markers

6mm [5mm, 4mm] 80cm (or 40cm if making smaller sizes) circular

6mm [5mm, 4mm] DPNs

Waste yarn

Stitch holder



Darning needle


Gauge: 16sts [20 sts, 22sts] / 10cm

Glossary

pm – place marker

kfb – knit front and back

slm – slip marker

yo – yarn over

m1 – make one stitch


Measurements Required (in centimetres)

Underarm to underarm across the back – A (40 cm)

Underarm to underbust (think where your bra sits) – B (10 cm)

Underbust measurement – C (84 cm)

Underarm to hip bone – G (32 cm)

Underam measurement – H (48 cm)



As requested by a reader I have included a schematic for the measurements. Do excuse the dodgy drawing (drawing is not my strong point). I have done the best I could!

Body

CO 28 stitches using the circular needle.

Row 1: kfb, pm, kfb, k3, kfb, pm, kfb, k14, kfb, pm, kfb, k3, kfb, pm, kfb

You have now created the right front, right sleeve, back, left sleeve and left front between the markers.

Row 2: purl across

Row 3: kfb, kfb, slm, kfb, k5, kfb, slm, kfb, k16, kfb, slm, kfb, k5, kfb, slm, kfb, kfb

Row 4: purl across

Row 5: kfb, knit to stitch before next marker, kfb, slm , kfb, knit to stitch before next marker, kfb, slm, , kfb, knit to stitch before next marker, kfb, slm, , kfb, knit to stitch before next marker, kfb, slm, kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb.

Row 6: purl across.

Continue repeating rows 5 and 6 until there are (A/10 x 16 [20,22]) stitches between the2nd and 3rd markers (across the back).

Create the sleeves: kfb, k to stitch before first marker, transfer next stitch to right needle, place the sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, slip stitch back onto left needle, pm, k2tog, knit all but last of the back stitches, transfer next stitch to right needle, place the sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, slip stitch back onto left needle, pm, knit to last stitch, kfb

Next row: purl across

The body:

Row 1: kfb, knit to second last stitch, kfb

Row 2: purl across

Now would be an opportune time to try on your jumper - Slip half the stitches onto another circular or put the whole thing onto scrap yarn. It should fit comfortably across the shoulders and around the arms. If it is too small, do more increase rounds, similarly if it is too big frog back a few increases.

Continue repeating rows 1 and 2 until your work measures B cms from the bottom of the armhole.

Knit to the 2nd stitch marker (right side of garment). From this point forward this will be the start of the round.

Calculate the number of stitches required for the body – (C/10 x 16 [20,22]) stitches – D stitches (ensure that this is an even number – round up if necessary).

Count the number of stitches in total already on the needles (E stitches) and D giving you ‘F’ stitches.

Divide F by 2. Knit this number of stitches. Transfer the remaining stitches on the right needle to a spare needle.

Lay the spare needle behind the left hand needle and knit one stitch from the front needle (original circular) together with one from the back needle (spare needle) until all stitches from the spare needle are gone. The work is now joined in the round. Knit to the end of the round.

If you are using a contrast colour, join it now.

Knit next round.

Take another opportunity to try on the garment. If the garment is not fitting in under the bust remeasure your underbust and recalculate the cross over. If the garment is too long, undo the crossover and frog back a few increases. Similarly if it is too short, undo the crossover and add more increases.

Sash

The sash is worked in woven stitch as follows:

Round 1: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back*, repeat from * to * to end of round

Round 2: knit all stitches

Round 3: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1*, repeat from * to * to end of round

Round 4: knit all stitches

For adult size, work these 4 rounds for 7cm. For child sized garment work the 4 rounds for 3cm. For an infant sized garment work them for 2cm.

Lower Body

Rejoin main colour.

Knit next round.

Increase round: k1, m1, knit to last stitch before marker, m1, k2, m1, knit to last stitch before marker, m1, k1

Knit 5 [7,9] rounds

Repeat these last 6 [8,10] rounds (or part thereof) until work measures G cms from the bottom of the armhole.

Bottom

Round 1: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back* repeat for first 4 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 8 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 4 stitches

Round 2: knit all stitches

Round 3: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1* repeat for first 4 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 8 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 4 stitches

Round 4: knit all stitches

Row 5: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back* repeat for first 4 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 4 stitches, turn

*You are now working the front of the piece back and forth

Row 6: purl all stitches

Row 7: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1* repeat for first 4 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before end, work * to * for 4 stitches

Row 8: purl all stitches

Work Rows 5 – 8 twice [once, not again] more

Row 9: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back* repeat to end

Row 10: purl all stitches

Row 11: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1* to end

Row 12: purl all stitches

Repeat Rows 9 – 12 [9 -10, 9 -10]

Bind off.

Join yarn to back and repeat from *

Sleeves

Evenly space the sleeve stitches on 3 DPNs.

With the right side facing, locate the centre bottom of the sleeve opening. Pick up two stitches from the left of the opening and continue knitting the round, picking up two additional stitches onto needle 3

Knit until sleeve measures (H – 15cm)

Increase Round: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1

Knit next 3 [5, 7] rounds

Repeat last 4 [6, 8] rounds until sleeve measures (H - 3 cm).

Change to contrasting yarn if you are using it.

Knit next round

Work 3 cms of woven stitch as per the sash

BO loosely

Finishing

Weave in ends and block.

This pattern is provided free for your own personal use. You may knit it for yourself, as a gift, a swap or for charity. This pattern is not intended for commercial use. Any intended commercial use requires permission in writing.


18 comments:

TinkingBell said...

You are amazing - what a wonderful pattern! I'll certainly donate to MND - thanks for yet another wonderful pattern!

Sam said...

WTG Jack! I'm really keen to make one for Amber - wish I had some more merino spun!

Deb said...

Wow Jacki, this is gorgeous. Can't wait to knit one up for Miss Meg. Thanks so much for sharing :)

Sylver said...

That is a great pattern; I will definatly be casting this on once I get the yarn! Nice job!
SylverX from Ravelry

Anonymous said...

Is there a schematic for this sweater somewhere? I'd love to give it a try, but I'm a little confused as to where exactly to measure for "underbust," "underarm to underbust," etc. Is is because I'm an American? These measurements aren't familiar to me. Thank you!

Jack said...

As you asked so nicely Anonymous, I have drawn up a rather badly drawn schematic. The body is Australian but hopefully it will be okay. ;)

Anonymous said...

Your schematic is perfect! It's exactly what I was hoping for. As soon as I wrap up a couple works-in-progress, I'm giving this sweater a try. Thanks for your quick response (and even over the holidays!) Happy new year!

Margo said...

can't wait to try this out - thanks for sharing the pattern

Kirsten said...

Knitting your pattern and am a bit confused at calculation of the number of stitches for the body. Where do you get the letter D from?

Kirsten H.

Barbara said...

This is cuter than a kitten with a ball of yarn but can somebody put it in a form that downloads/prints more economically? Seven pages and only the top half of the sketch won't get me through. I'm not the sharpest needle in the knitting bag. Thanks. bl

Chinacat said...

I love the look of the kimono but I can't read the pattern at all because of your background. The text is too small and does not have enough contrast. I'll save the page and use dreamweaver to remove the background but if the item wasn't as good as it is, I wouldn't bother.

Jack said...

Might I respectfully suggest that people simply use cut and paste to transfer the text to a word processing program for printing.

Katt said...

That would work if you didn't need the sketch as well.

Katt said...

Using a word processing program would be fine .... as long as you don't need the sketch.

Fairelite said...

I found a great site with averae size measurements for children so that if you don't have one to measure you can still make the sweater. http://www.fibergypsy.com/common/children.shtml

P.S. YOu can cut and paste the sketch into your word document as well IMHO

Fairelite said...

To convert inches to centimeters
the formula is

# of inches X 2.54 = centimeters

With a little math (ha ha ha) I just might be able to make this

lolololol

Elise Forest Dancer said...

Thanks for the pattern! This is my first jumper and I am knitting it for my 2-yr-old. Now I am putting the sleeve stitches onto waste yarn. Question: before the back stitches you say to knit 2 tog but on the other side after the back you left it out. Was that on purpose? Or should I knit 2 tog on this side as well? Thanks.

Jack said...

Right you are, you should knit those two together.