Aussie, Aussie, Aussie!

Oi, Oi, Oi!

My little Aussie Supporters watching the swimming today.

And yep, the Duncmeister is wearing his Moccies. You can't get much more Aussie than that!

A craft relating post coming soon. I promise...

Has it really been a year?

I can hardly believe that it has been a year since last Sam and I headed to the Bendigo Sheep and Wool Show. Since then I have done so much more knitting and have so much more yarn! You might think that this alone might have curbed my stash enhancement activities, but......

Instead of the one day scramble across to Bendigo the girls and I decided to head across Friday night. Tania, bless her cotton-picking heart had booked a little two room unit for the family and rearranged her plans so that we three could stay there Friday night and her family tonight. This allowed us to head to the Ravelry breakfast organised by Feisty Wench and funded by Australian Country Spinners that was held this morning without getting up at the butt-crack of dawn.

It also allowed me to make Sam drink far too much red wine and be too hungover to eat anything at the breakfast. She did however win the best ACS-using item with her Lizard Ridge which did take some of the pain out of her throbbing head. Being a sensible girl myself, I drank a sedate organic white (plus a few small glasses of Sam's red) and was in much better knick.

A few random shots and thoughts:

Isn't it sad that poor alpacas have to hang around with their own kind. The white alpacas with the white alpacas. And because I am an equal opportunity photographer...


The black alpacas with the black alpacas. What a shame for the poor alpacas. But then we found...



The United Nations of Alpacas and we were much happier.

You have got to love alpacas, they are just too cute! This one in particular seemed to forge a bond with Sam. What do you reckon? Love at first sight?


Once Sam started to feel a little better (it took three coffees, some Dutch pancakes and a cookie) she was forced to "take the edge off" with just a little knitting.

And about then I realised that the hood of her rogue sat just so she looked like a little we teddy bear, complete with widdle teddy bear ears.

Trust me, I could see it.

We saw (and purchased) some great yarn....

Wendy Dennis Polwarth amongst other things. I love Wendy's yarn!

And we saw some terrible things

No not Sam (how could you think such a thing? How unkind), look behind Sam.

And whilst we felt the need to be audited we managed to resist. Who knew the Tom Cruise knitted?


Is there anywhere the Scientologists won't go?

And a fine time was had by all!

The Not Rocket Science Coffee Holder

I know I said that there would be no more work these holidays but it would seem that I lied. This is just a quicky and as the title suggests, it is definitely not rocket science so here goes. I really like the mirror image cables that this design creates all the way around.

Materials:

30-35m Worsted Weight Yarn

5mm DPNs
Cable needle
Darning Needle.

Gauge: 20 sts/10 cm

Abbreviations:

C6B: slip 3 stitches onto the cable needle, hold them behind the work, knit 3 stitches, then the 3 from the cable needle.

C6F: slip 3 stitches onto the cable needle, hold them in front of the work, knit 3 stitches, then the 3h from the cable needle.

Pattern:

CO 48sts, join to work in the round.

Work 5 rounds of 2x2 ribbing.

Cable section
Rounds 1-3: [k6, p2] repeat to end
Round 4: [C6F, p2, C6B, p2] repeat to end
Rounds 5-10: [k6, p2] repeat to end
Round 11: [C6F, p2, C6B, p2] repeat to end
Rounds 12-14: [k6, p2] repeat to end

Work 4 rounds of 2x2 rib and bind off.

Weave in your ends and Voila! See not even close to rocket science.

This pattern is provided free for your own personal use. You may knit it for yourself, as a gift, a swap or for charity. This pattern is not intended for commercial use. Any intended commercial use requires permission in writing.

Nameraka Hat!

Phew what a holidays!

A little pattern for a hat that matches the Nameraka Sweater.

Material

12 ply [10 ply, 8 ply] yarn – You should get away with 60 - 100m total.
1 stitch marker
6mm [5mm, 4mm] 40cm circular
6mm [5mm, 4mm] DPNs
Darning needle

Gauge: 16sts [20 sts, 22sts] / 10cm

Glossary

pm – place marker
k2tog – Knit two stitches together

Finished Measurements

Child’s Hat – 45 cm circumference
Adult’s Hat – 55 cm circumference

Pattern:

For child's hat: CO 70 [90, 100] stitches;

For adult's hat: CO 90 [110, 120] stitches;

Join to work in the round being careful not to twist stitches, pm.

Round 1: Knit all stitches
Round 2: Purl all stitches
Repeat these two rounds once more for child's hat or twice more for adult's hat.

Change colour (if you are using two), knit one round

Work the rest of the body of the hat in woven stitch as described below until child's hat measures 12.5 cms or adult's hat measures 18cm:

Round 1: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back*, repeat from * to * to end of round
Round 2: knit all stitches
Round 3: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1*, repeat from * to * to end of round
Round 4: knit all stitches

Decreases (change to DPNs when necessary):
Change back to original colour and knit one round

Round 1: [k8, k2tog] repeat to end
Round 2: [k7, k2tog] repeat to end
Round 3: [k6, k2tog] repeat to end
Round 4: [k5, k2tog] repeat to end
Round 5: [k4, k2tog] repeat to end
Round 6: [k3, k2tog] repeat to end
Round 7: [k2, k2tog] repeat to end
Round 8: [k1, k2tog] repeat to end
Round 1: [k2tog] repeat to end

Cut the yarn, thread through remaining stitches and secure.

Finishing

Weave in ends.

This pattern is provided free for your own personal use. You may knit it for yourself, as a gift, a swap or for charity. This pattern is not intended for commercial use. Any intended commercial use requires permission in writing.

Nameraka - Any Size, Any Yarn Seamless Kimono Jumper

This pattern is being offered free for your use however if you like it I would really appreciate it if you could donate a few dollars to the MND Victoria an organisation that supports sufferers of and reserach into Motor Neurone Disease. If you would like to read more about why I am passionate about this cause please click here.

Materials:

12 ply [10 ply, 8 ply] yarn – the actual amount required will obvious vary according to the finished garment size. As an indication, the original garment (measurements in parentheses below) used 800m of the main colour and 120m of the contrast. The child’s sweater (approximately a size 2) used approximately 300m of the main colour and 50m of the contrast. If you are unsure as to how much yarn to get, think about how much yarn a jumper in your size would need and you are pretty close.

4 stitch markers

6mm [5mm, 4mm] 80cm (or 40cm if making smaller sizes) circular

6mm [5mm, 4mm] DPNs

Waste yarn

Stitch holder

Darning needle

Gauge: 16sts [20 sts, 22sts] / 10cm

Glossary

pm – place marker

kfb – knit front and back

slm – slip marker

yo – yarn over

m1 – make one stitch

Measurements Required (in centimetres)

Underarm to underarm across the back – A (40 cm)

Underarm to underbust (think where your bra sits) – B (10 cm)

Underbust measurement – C (84 cm)

Underarm to hip bone – G (32 cm)

Underam measurement – H (48 cm)

As requested by a reader I have included a schematic for the measurements. Do excuse the dodgy drawing (drawing is not my strong point). I have done the best I could!

Body

CO 28 stitches using the circular needle.

Row 1: kfb, pm, kfb, k3, kfb, pm, kfb, k14, kfb, pm, kfb, k3, kfb, pm, kfb

You have now created the right front, right sleeve, back, left sleeve and left front between the markers.

Row 2: purl across

Row 3: kfb, kfb, slm, kfb, k5, kfb, slm, kfb, k16, kfb, slm, kfb, k5, kfb, slm, kfb, kfb

Row 4: purl across

Row 5: kfb, knit to stitch before next marker, kfb, slm , kfb, knit to stitch before next marker, kfb, slm, , kfb, knit to stitch before next marker, kfb, slm, , kfb, knit to stitch before next marker, kfb, slm, kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb.

Row 6: purl across.

Continue repeating rows 5 and 6 until there are (A/10 x 16 [20,22]) stitches between the2nd and 3rd markers (across the back).

Create the sleeves: kfb, k to stitch before first marker, transfer next stitch to right needle, place the sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, slip stitch back onto left needle, pm, k2tog, knit all but last of the back stitches, transfer next stitch to right needle, place the sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, slip stitch back onto left needle, pm, knit to last stitch, kfb

Next row: purl across

The body:

Row 1: kfb, knit to second last stitch, kfb

Row 2: purl across

Now would be an opportune time to try on your jumper - Slip half the stitches onto another circular or put the whole thing onto scrap yarn. It should fit comfortably across the shoulders and around the arms. If it is too small, do more increase rounds, similarly if it is too big frog back a few increases.

Continue repeating rows 1 and 2 until your work measures B cms from the bottom of the armhole.

Knit to the 2^nd stitch marker (right side of garment). From this point forward this will be the start of the round.

Calculate the number of stitches required for the body – (C/10 x 16 [20,22]) stitches – D stitches (ensure that this is an even number – round up if necessary).

Count the number of stitches in total already on the needles (E stitches) and D giving you ‘F’ stitches.

Divide F by 2. Knit this number of stitches. Transfer the remaining stitches on the right needle to a spare needle.

Lay the spare needle behind the left hand needle and knit one stitch from the front needle (original circular) together with one from the back needle (spare needle) until all stitches from the spare needle are gone. The work is now joined in the round. Knit to the end of the round.

If you are using a contrast colour, join it now.

Knit next round.

Take another opportunity to try on the garment. If the garment is not fitting in under the bust remeasure your underbust and recalculate the cross over. If the garment is too long, undo the crossover and frog back a few increases. Similarly if it is too short, undo the crossover and add more increases.

Sash

The sash is worked in woven stitch as follows:

Round 1: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back*, repeat from * to * to end of round

Round 2: knit all stitches

Round 3: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1*, repeat from * to * to end of round

Round 4: knit all stitches

For adult size, work these 4 rounds for 7cm. For child sized garment work the 4 rounds for 3cm. For an infant sized garment work them for 2cm.

Lower Body

Rejoin main colour.

Knit next round.

Increase round: k1, m1, knit to last stitch before marker, m1, k2, m1, knit to last stitch before marker, m1, k1

Knit 5 [7,9] rounds

Repeat these last 6 [8,10] rounds (or part thereof) until work measures G cms from the bottom of the armhole.

Bottom

Round 1: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back* repeat for first 4 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 8 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 4 stitches

Round 2: knit all stitches

Round 3: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1* repeat for first 4 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 8 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 4 stitches

Round 4: knit all stitches

Row 5: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back* repeat for first 4 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before marker, work * to * for 4 stitches, turn

*You are now working the front of the piece back and forth

Row 6: purl all stitches

Row 7: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1* repeat for first 4 stitches, knit to 4 stitches before end, work * to * for 4 stitches

Row 8: purl all stitches

Work Rows 5 – 8 twice [once, not again] more

Row 9: *k1, bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back* repeat to end

Row 10: purl all stitches

Row 11: *bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, take yarn back, k1* to end

Row 12: purl all stitches

Repeat Rows 9 – 12 [9 -10, 9 -10]

Bind off.

Join yarn to back and repeat from *

Sleeves

Evenly space the sleeve stitches on 3 DPNs.

With the right side facing, locate the centre bottom of the sleeve opening. Pick up two stitches from the left of the opening and continue knitting the round, picking up two additional stitches onto needle 3

Knit until sleeve measures (H – 15cm)

Increase Round: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1

Knit next 3 [5, 7] rounds

Repeat last 4 [6, 8] rounds until sleeve measures (H - 3 cm).

Change to contrasting yarn if you are using it.

Knit next round

Work 3 cms of woven stitch as per the sash

BO loosely

Finishing

Weave in ends and block.

This pattern is provided free for your own personal use. You may knit it for yourself, as a gift, a swap or for charity. This pattern is not intended for commercial use. Any intended commercial use requires permission in writing.

Flower Top Baby Beanie

Another hat for the Guardian Angels and I thought I would share the pattern.

Materials: 60m of 8ply yarn

Equipment: 4mm dpns and optional 30cm circular
Stitch marker
Darning Needle

Size: 30cm circumference unstretched to 40cm fully stretched. The rib gives a longer lasting hat as does the fold up brim.

Gauge: 22sts / 10cm

The pattern:

Cast on 72 sts, join to work in the round (remember not to twist those stitches).

Round 1: [k4, p4] repeat to end.

Work this round for 30cms.

Decrease rounds:

Round 1: [k4, p2, p2tog] repeat to end

Rounds 2 and 3: [k4, p3] repeat to end

Round 4: [k4, p1, p2tog] repeat to end

Rounds 5 and 6: [k4, p2] repeat to end

Round 6: [k4, p2tog] repeat to end

Rounds 7 and 8: [k4, p1] repeat to end

Round 9: [k3, k2tog] repeat to end

Rounds 10 and 11: k all stitches

Flower Cast Off:

k1, bind off 4 sts, [k2, bind off 4 sts] repeat to end. At this point there should be 12 stitches left. Cut your yarn and thread through the remaining stitches being sure NOT TO PULL THEM TOO TIGHT!!! Secure the yarn and weave in ends. The enthusiastic might like to embroider some nice leaves next to the petals too.

.

Thanks to Bart for his modelling expertise!

This pattern is provided free for your own personal use. You may knit it for yourself, as a gift, a swap or for charity. This pattern is not intended for commercial use. Any intended commercial use requires permission in writing.

Pooling is a funny thing.

I have currently been making some hats for the World Vision Guardian Angels program as part of the Woolaholics team. This is my first go at charity knitting. My Mum is the charity knitter in the family and has about 15 jumpers, 20 hats and a pile of toys and scarves ready to be sent off. Sure makes my few paltry hats look scungy!

Aside from a few hats made from bits and bobs of Lamb's Pride and Country Silk, I have made three hats from MIYO hand-dyed 12 ply in the blue, green and brown colourway. This is what I have done so far:

Cute huh? As you can see there are three different sizes there - a 72 stitch, 64 stitch and 56 stitch cast on. Now check out this shot:

Can you believe the difference in the pooling? Check out the 64 stitch cast on! now I will tell the truth. If it was for me I would have yanked it out and redone it with a different number of stitches but given that it will still keep someone's head roasty-toasty warm it has been saved from the frog pool. I really do love the striped effect on the other two though.

I swear, there is a mathematics doctoral thesis in colour pooling!